Andy Warhol—
From A to B and 
Back Again

Nov 12, 2018–Mar 31, 2019


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Warhol Before Warhol

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The 1950s were a foundational decade for Warhol—a time when he worked for commercial clients while he also pursued a career as a fine artist. After graduating from the Carnegie Institute of Technology in Pittsburgh, Warhol moved to New York and quickly established himself as a successful commercial illustrator, working primarily in fashion as well as for companies ranging from CBS to Ciba Pharmaceuticals. Art directors valued Warhol’s versatility and ingenuity, but it was his ability to internalize and quickly respond to feedback that made him an ideal collaborator. His most significant job was for the shoe company I. Miller and Sons, whose innovative, award-winning campaign featuring Warhol’s idiosyncratic drawings successfully rebranded its line to appeal to a new, younger audience. His style and instincts were perfectly suited to a period when creating a personality for a product and being attentive to how it would appear in print mattered more than depicting it in accurate detail.

“I’m still a commercial artist. I was always a commercial artist”

During the same time, Warhol was also making his own work. An astute social observer and openly gay man, he was producing paintings and drawings that were out of sync with the machismo of Abstract Expressionism. Instead, Warhol was drawn to imagery that could be interpreted on multiple levels, producing many works that employed a coded language fully comprehensible only to those in the know, such as close friends or regulars at the gender-fluid salon hosted by fashion photographer Otto Fenn. Some of his works such as the fantastical gold shoes were shown publicly, while others, such as his intimate drawings of men’s feet, were kept private.

Truman Capote, c. 1956

An illustration of a gold shoe.
An illustration of a gold shoe.

Andy Warhol, Truman Capote, c. 1956. Collaged metal leaf with ink on paper, 16 × 20 1⁄2 in. (40.6 × 52.1 cm). Collection of Edward De Luca. © 2018 The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, Inc. / Licensed by Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York

In 1956 Warhol exhibited a series of gold shoe collages in which he personified numerous individuals—fashionable socialites, magazine editors, and art directors, as well as actors, actresses, and authors. Each fantasy shoe is inscribed with the (often misspelled) name of its subject.

This collage express Warhol’s admiration for and fascination with Truman Capote, a writer whom he drew frequently. According to Warhol, when he first arrived in New York, he wrote fan letters to Capote and called him on the phone every day—until the author’s mother demanded that he stop. In 1948 Capote had published his best-selling debut novel, Other Voices, Other Rooms, a semi-autobiographical coming-of-age story that, while lauded for its prose, was derided by some critics for its frank depiction of homosexuality. Inspired by Capote's book, Warhol made a drawing that isolates Capote's hand from the jacket portrait, which captured the young Capote reclining on a couch, provocatively eyeing the camera (and the photographer, Harold Halma).

  • Magazine spread with shoe illustrations.
    Magazine spread with shoe illustrations.

    "Crazy Golden Slippers," LIFE, January 21, 1957. © 1957 Time Inc. All rights reserved

  • A black and white photograph of a man lying on a couch.
    A black and white photograph of a man lying on a couch.

    Author photo of Truman Capote for Other Voices, Other Rooms (1947). Photograph © Harold Halma. © 2018 The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, Inc. / Licensed by Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York

  • A drawing of Truman's hand.
    A drawing of Truman's hand.

    On view in the exhibition:

    Andy Warhol, "Truman’s Hand", 1950s. Ink on paper, 16 3⁄4 × 13 3⁄4 in. (42.5 × 34.9 cm). The Andy Warhol Museum, Pittsburgh; Founding Collection, contribution The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, Inc. 1998.1.1723. © 2018 The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, Inc. / Licensed by Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York

  • A drawing of Truman Capote.
    A drawing of Truman Capote.

    On view in the exhibition:

    Andy Warhol, "Truman Capote", c. 1952. Ink on paper, 16 3⁄4 × 13 3⁄4 in. (42.5 × 34.9 cm). The Andy Warhol Museum, Pittsburgh; Founding Collection, contribution The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, Inc. 1998.1.1653. © 2018 The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, Inc. / Licensed by Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York

  • A photograph of Andy Warhol and his mother.
    A photograph of Andy Warhol and his mother.

    Duane Michals, Andy Warhol and his mother, Julia Warhola, 1958. © Duane Michals. Courtesy of DC Moore Gallery, New York

  • A drawing of two angels.
    A drawing of two angels.

    On view in the exhibition:

    Andy Warhol, In the Bottom of My Garden, 1956. Twenty-two offset prints, some hand colored, hardcover bound, 8 5⁄8 × 11 1⁄4 × 1⁄2 in. (21.9 × 28.6 × 1.3 cm). Collection of Anthony d’Offay. © 2018 The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, Inc. / Licensed by Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York

  • Archival photograph of Andy Warhol standing in front of Serendipity.
    Archival photograph of Andy Warhol standing in front of Serendipity.

    Andy Warhol sitting in front of the restaurant Serendipity 3, New York, where he sometimes exhibited drawings, such as those related to his book In the Bottom of My Garden. Image courtesy Serendipity 3

  • Other Voices, Other Rooms

    Read an excerpt of Truman Capote’s Other Voices, Other Rooms

    NPR Books
  • Truman Capote Reads From Breakfast At Tiffany's, 1963

    —92Y
  • Hear from Richard Meyer about Warhol, shoes, and identity

    0:00

    Hear from Richard Meyer about Warhol, shoes, and identity

    0:00

  • Spotify Playlist

    Hi-Lo: Warhol's Album Covers, 1949-59

  • Related Works - 1

    Related Artworks
    From the Collection



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